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The small Norwegian town of Kirkenes is the point of contact between NATO and Russia’s nuclear stronghold. Over the past two years, the New Yorker reporter Ben Taub has been visiting the area to report on the espionage operations taking place there. He spoke with intelligence officers, journalists, politicians, and locals who ended up in the sway of the F.S.B., Russia’s largest intelligence agency; traversed roughly 70 kilometres of the border, mostly in snowshoes; bunked with conscripts in remo
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